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Posts Tagged ‘Hot Springs’

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May – June 2014

No strictly scheduled, 28-day outdoor course would be complete without a proper chill-fest afterwards, and the few days following graduation were perfectly spent doing absolutely nothing back in Rishikesh. Sadly, Dhruv, a joyful dude with a contagious laugh, had to get back to Delhi immediately for work, but the majority of our core-group was able to post-up above the Ganga and unwind. Luckily, I will most likely be seeing him again because he serves as a program director at the Himalayan Outward Bound, and I would be honored to give my time to the organization and kids. I whole-heartedly believe that exposing children to the wonders of nature is one of the most positive things you can do for them; it is an opportunity for them to leave behind their everyday external influences and allow the simplicity of nature to influence their bodies and minds. It didn’t take us long to kick the early-rising schedule of the course, but anytime we heard the familiar sound of a whistle of the clinkity clank of pots and pans, our minds told us it was time for tea or a meal. We decided to be ambitious and squeeze in a crazy low-budget rafting trip before our buddy Ez, and an animated Argentinean from the basic course, zoomed off to Nepal to conquer the three passes In Sagarmatha. It was much more rough and thrilling than I could have imagined P1060873after observing the smooth waters that flow through the central parts of the tourist district, but I struggled not to vomit after a night of celebratory inebriation centered around Eminem marathons and sloppy freestyle sessions. Victor, one of my favorite classmates, happened to be a huge fan of Mr. Mathers, so he was the perfect companion to bust flows with once the booze loosened us up a bit. In-between pizza-binging, we also managed to attempt the “momo challenge” for a second time. Lucas and I came up with this remarkable gut-test in Kathmandu, where a plate of street momos, basically dumplings with a superior name, costs only $.50. The goal is to consume one-hundred of these bad-boys before throwing in the towel. We failed miserably the first time around, so it was imperative to try again. After committing to the marathon of gluttony, we realized that Rishikesh wasn’t the best location for the competition (because of its religious significance, the food is mostly vegetarian), and there weren’t even many places that served momos, so the options were limited. We went for it anyway, and the owners of a tiny hole-in-the-wall refused all business for the night while we blasted tunes and scarfed cabbage wrapped in dough by the plate of ten. When a group of travelers stopped by and asked what we were doing and we told them we were Americans, they responded, “that makes sense, only Americans would have an eating competition.” They tasted alright at first, but I was soon shoving four or five in my mouth at a time just to get them down. Eventually, they were too undesirable to carry on. Lucas gulped eighty-three, the most by far, but even he was too turned-off by the bland, unexciting flavor. We called it just in time, because the owners started accusing us of taking drugs (not true at all), but I guess he assumed that only someone on substances would attempt something so ridiculous. Another challenge, no victor, but it definitely won’t be the last! The deed has to be done. The heat was rising in the town nestled in the foothills, so we departed from our buddies and traveled further north into the green, lush state of Himachal Pradesh. (more…)

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Our friend group dwindled quickly after our night debauchery; one-by-one the mountaineer trainees walked off and blended into the crowded streets of Darjeeling to resume their lives outside of the institute. We were the last to depart and crammed into a Jeep headed for Siliguri, where the sheer chaos of P1030316India made itself apparent immediately. Dozens of people confronted us and shouted various tips for getting to the Nepalese border, and every piece of information was heavily biased depending on the company they were affiliated with or who would give them some commission. We eventually figured out that the cheapest option was to wait on the side of the litter-strewn main street next to some fruit vendors and wait for a local bus to pick us up. Once our rucksacks were strapped to the roof, we pressed our bodies against the other passengers standing in the aisle and slowly chugged along the road. The slow ride went very smoothly except for the fact that a young girl got carsick and blew chunks all over another passenger and the floor. As she tried to hold the fluid in with her hand, she was yelled at and smacked around by her parents. Although they had already paid for their journey, they were all forced to forfeit their tickets and evacuate at the next stop. The Indian-Nepalese border is completely open. There are no check-points and little security. There were people freely coming and going from both sides of the bridge, and we only stopped at the immigration huts because we knew we would run into trouble later if our papers were not in order. We made it over the crossing at the last second and caught the sole Nepali officer as he was heading out the door. He didn’t even care that Lucas didn’t have the required passport-size photos for the visa because he wanted to be at home with his family. We also missed the last bus headed to Kathmandu, but a man called the driver and had him swing back to grab us. I always seem luck-out in these time-crunch scenarios. The Japanese people a few behind us in the immigration queue must have definitely spent the night in town waiting for the morning bus. Although the dilapidated seats of the vehicle and the unbelievably bumpy roads connecting the far corners of eastern Nepal with the capital did not lend to a solid night’s sleep, the onboard entertainment was amazing. A rough, disheveled man sitting next to us got so P1030398drunk that he could not stay in his seat. Every time he got comfortable and fell asleep, he would tumble onto the ground and wake up confused and furious, but it didn’t stop him from repeating it again and again. The driver also had to keep lighting incense sticks and arguing with him because he wouldn’t keep his shoes on, the only thing keeping his noxious foot-odor contained. By sunrise, we arrived in the city sprawled across an enormous valley at he Himalayan foothills. We were far from anything remotely close to a tourist center but decided to wander around for a few hours in the light drizzle that would follow us around for the next few days until we found what we were looking for: the glitz and glamour of Tinsel Town. Compared to the rest of the city, the area of Thamel is a shit-show. The hippie haven of the past is now a bustling tourist hot-spot overflowing with overpriced, Western-style restaurants, knock-off gear shops (some have legitimate stuff), money-changers, and storefronts with unimaginable varieties of souvenirs. Not a very culturally unique atmosphere, but a good home-base for running trip-preparation errands and acquiring valuable travel-tips. (more…)

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We hurriedly snaked down the 8km stretch of trail from Quyllur Rit´i towards Mawallani and choked on thick clouds of dust with the other departing sleep-IMGP8110deprived devotees. Before we could reach the transport options heading in the direction of Cusco, we strolled rocky streets that were still lined with stalls selling local food and goodies of every variety. There was no way I could have resisted the sights and smells of so many tempting delicacies, so we packed in a perfectly prepared fried trout platter to supply us with the energy we would need for the next few days of hardcore romping. After a quick taxi ride to the next town, Tinqui, we unloaded some of our excess gear on some friendly shop-owners and set off towards the towering natural monuments that provide a gorgeous backdrop for the bustling settlement. Since the time my trekking book was published, there has been much change for the people of the region. What were described as tiny, undefined footpaths ten years ago have transformed into full-blown, level dirt-roads. Although few cars can be currently spotted, many villagers are equipped with sleek dirt-bikes and scooters. Because of the IMGP8117changes in infrastructure, we immediately became lost and started heading in the completely wrong direction. Once I voiced my concerns, Sam stepped up and asked a farmer what we needed to do to get back on track. He gave us some explicit instructions and sent us on our way but quickly decided to accompany us to make sure we didn’t screw things up again. He was inquisitive and wore a nonstop smile. He even found a bathroom in one of his neighbor’s yards for Mayumi to use along the way. Eventually, the path was too obvious for him to continue any further, so he bade us good luck and went about his personal business without even hinting at a tip. The rest of the night was spent walking as far as we could towards the frozen peaks of Ausangate (6,372m) before the sun disappeared IMG_4612beyond the horizon, and this mission landed us in the quaint village of Upis. Until this point all of children we passed had asked for handouts, primarily candy, a clear indication of a popular hiking route that has seen way too many foolish trekkers who think that throwing some cheap sweets at kids and building a generation of beggars is being generous and helpful. If people want to feel good and make a positive impact, they can donate supplies to underfunded village schools or volunteer their time; indiscriminate handouts do not benefit anyone. Not to mention, it is sad that white skin is equivalent to a money-bank or candy-shop to peasants the world over because people think that temporary smiles and instant gratification are positive. Anyway, the vibe in Upis was much different. The children were respectful and the adults insisted that we stay in their village because the next viable campsite was too far for comfort. We took them up on their offer and pitched in the flat space in-between the small store and a few roped-up horses. A short walk, but a really welcoming place to rest.

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As I faded in and out of consciousness on the bumpy ride from La Paz to Copacabana, the previous six weeks spent waking the ancient footpaths of   the Bolivian Andes seemed like nothing more than a wonderful dream. Was I really fortunate enough to have near perfect weather and amazing trekking companions accompany me in one of the most spectacular landscapes on the planet? The hospitality and friendliness of nearly every person I encountered also struck me as surreal. I had visited the poorest country on the continent, yet the population was wealthy in so many more important ways than simple P1010654monetary measurements. In no time, we had shivered our way across a river and pulled into one of the welcoming plazas of the sacred town splendidly hugging the side of Lake Titicaca. The  early Tiwanaku people, the mighty Incas, and present-day Catholic devotees all revere this location for various religious reasons. The islands off the coast are considered the birthplace of the sun, moon, and the first Incan people, and nowadays pilgrims come from far and wide to requests gifts from the Dark Lady of the Lake at the central cathedral. Sam and I came for one important reason: the trout. There are many stalls along the beachfront that sell an assortment of freshwater goodies, many which are endemic to the lake. We spent two days fattening up on cheap pescado and soaking in the sunny views of the largest high-alpine lake on earth. There was not much else going on in the sleepy town, but the sweeping views kept us interested until our late-night departure to Cusco.

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